Monday, March 31, 2014

Baseball time!

 I got a request in to do a baseball theam set.

Here it is, a white hat sized for 17 inch baby/toddler, with red stitching to make it look like a baseball.  It has ear flap an 12in tassles .

I also made a white and red trimmed diaper cover, I tried to make the St Louis Cardnils 'STL' logo to go with the set but it didnt come out right and I am opting to leave it off as it just looked really bad.

I went with some yellow buttons mostly because I couldn't find two matching white/red, but I think they work well.

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Sneak Peak at a Pattern in Progress -WIP

I was inspired by a contest being held over on r/crochet hosted by the lovely u/SassySSS to make something that will make all this bleak winter weather we are having seem less cold.  
I wanted a summery tropic feel, so I am using this blue and white flower motif that reminds me of those Hawaiian shirts, with the pop of color from my old orange pillows. 
I made these pillows over 2 years ago in hopes to add some vibrancy to our huge brown dark abys of a couch.  I didnt realy think it through at the time, I just let myself fall in love with the colors I found.   They look ok on the couch but brown and orange just wasnt working for me.  I am hoping when I finish this pillow sham it will help warm up and brighten the room.

Maybe even make spring finally stick.

To make this I am making this motif -

1-ROW Ch 8, slst 1 in first ch.
2-ROW Ch 1, sc 16 into the loop.
3-ROW Ch 1, sc 2 over second and first rows (into the loop), ch 9 picot (ch 9, ss in first ch), sc 4 over second and first rows (into the loop), ch 9 picot (ch 9, ss in first ch), repeat from to 4 more times, sc 2 into the loop, ss 1 in first sc in this row.
4-ROW  *ln next ch 9 picot: sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 3, ch 3 picot, tr 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2: skip 1 sc in 3rd row (loop), ss 1 in next sc', repeat from * to * 5 more times (except make last ss in the first sc of this row).

For the next an other motifs I will join them in row 4 on the last two peddles in the picot I will ch, sslst into previous motif picot, ch, slst to finish picot.  Since my Pillow is 12x12, using a E hook and WW yarn, I was able to work 6 motifs joining as I worked into a round and it fit my pillow just right, snug enough that it wont slouch but not so snug the work is pulled tight.

The second row has a lot more joins, as you go the first motif of the second row will connect to the first in 3 spots- bottom of  motif in previous row, the join of two from previous row, and the bottom of the next motif-- and each fallowing will connect in 4 - 1st to the first of the second round, 2nd to the bottom of the previous round where first motif is attached as well, 3rd to the previous row where 2 motifes join, 4th to the bottom of the previous row motif. Till the end, which will connect with 5 to close the round.

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Dean Winchester aka Jensen Ackles Chibi Amigurumi Finished

I am on my way to starting a set of Supernatural Ami's.  I have the head, and most of the base body finished, just need to make legs, arms, and a jacket then go into the detailing of eyes and hair.

I am just making the pattern up as I go so I hope he comes out and anyone will look and say "Oh such a cute Dean' or at least know its a Dean/Jensen.

I am almost finished I just have to  give him hair and find a way to style it in Dean/Jensen fasion.

I will update here as I work on him so make sure to come back and check up to see the finished doll.

I stayed up late like a zombi to finish him.  I couldnt stop once I started on the hair I had to keep going or risk one of my animals really messing it up thinking its a toy.  I went with the lightest brown, because his hair is like a dish water blond to medium brown depending on lighting.

I took some advice from the wonderful people over at r/chrochet on how to best do his hair style, which is army short on the sides and back, with semi longish top and front.   I tried a few ways and what seemed to look best to me atleas- was embroidering the sices back, and crown of his head with long flat stitchs, to get the bit in the front I did an embroidery stitch called Turkey Work .  Turkey work, is basicaly making two back stitches the first with  a loop held up, and the second (while holding the loop loose) worked tight to lock the loop in place so it doesnt  let the loop stitch fall out of the work when the loop is cut.

I am not sure my photo does him justice but its over cast outside so this is the best shot I can get.  I am not sure if you can tell but his eyes are custom painted.  This is the first time I have painted eyes.  I made them a blend of greens to get the green hazel his eyes appear to be.

His arms, legs, and head are fully adjustable, you can pose him.  I didn't wire him because again I was up late and zombie Sara doesn't really think about getting out the wire.

I kind of wish I had made his legs 2 rows longer so they wouldn't look so.... short.

Monday, March 24, 2014

Star 'Pentical' Granny Square Pattern

PGS scarf commission
Ok so over a year ago I saw someone posting a 'pentacle' granny and I looked at it and it was just a 6 pointed star/flower granny which disappointed me so I made up my own pattern to make a true pentacle granny square.

I have all my notes that I scribbled down, and have been promising since like July 2012 that I would write the pattern up.

So here it is, the long awaited Pentacle GS

US terms blah blah blah
I dont have any wip shots because when I wrote the pattern I did not take any, and when I was requested to make a scarf with them I just plain forgot.  If it is to confusing to fallow with out pic's just let me know in the comments and I will make some time to whip one up with photos.

Any yarn and hook size can be used.  Just make sure you use the size hook the yarn label calls for (or go up or down a hook size).

I am also coining a few new term 2ndchfh = 2nd chain from hook, and cinc= Corner increase which is 3 stitches worked into one instead of 2.

Base of the star-
Chain 51, sc in 2ndchfh. sc 3, cinc (this should be the 5th ch st your working into),*sc 9, cinc,*  repeat *--* four more times (you should now have 5 points), sc 5 and fo leaving a tail for weaving in the ends.

The star needs to be 'weaved' together now,each CINC is now a point of the star.   See diagram the first  CINC is 1 and so on.

It may help to have a blocking board and pins to help you keep everything in its place.

First lay it out, you wont need to weave till after you get the 3 point positioned/pinned, you will weave under the line going from 1 to 2.  Place or pin your 4 point, then go over the line  from 1 to 2, and under 2 to 3.  Place/Pin point 5, go over 2 to 3, and under 3 to 4. now use your tail ends to sew the the two ends together, I like to do the invisible join where you use the darning needle and  weave it uner the two loops of the first sc then go back into the last sc between loops.  It makes it harder to notice the join.

Now to make the Square-
R1 SLST and sc into the 5 point (you want to be in the 2nd sc in the middle of the CINC), chain 9, sc into 3 point, ch 9, sc into 1 point, ch 9, sc into 4 point, ch 9, sc in 2 point, ch 7 slst into first sc.  Points 2 and 5 will be the bottom which is why they have fewer ch between them.
R2 Ch 1, sc 1, *CINC, sc 11,* repeat this *---* all the way around ending with sc  9
R3 Ch 2 (doesnt count as a DC) dc 2, *cinc, (the cinc should be worked in the middle st of the last cinc incase your stitch countgot off) dc 12, *  repeat *---* 4 more times and end with dc 10 slst to first st.
R4- Ch 1, sc 3, work a *cinc in the middle of last rows cinc, sc 14,* repeat *--* all the way around sc 12 at the end and FO

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Horned Owl (aka Moonkin) Pattern


Horned Owl aka Moonkin

I was asked by someone if I could help them find a Moonkin from World of Warcraft crochet pattern.   I had no luck with that so I offered my time to write one out.

I provide a lot of patterns for free but this pattern I spent a lot of time working on testing and rewriting and converting into PDF format with a lot of images.  So I am going to offer it, but for donations.

All the donations will go through PayPal, so you can use your paypal account or pay via credit card.  All donations will help me provide YOU more free patterns, hopefully better, PDF version so they can be downloaded.

If this pattern gets a good response, I will start work on converting all of my free patterns into PDF version, that way they can be downloaded for easy use.  Converting will take alot of time rewriting, time hooking up the patter for clean professional photographing  (well as professional as I can get) instructions providing semi-step by step photos of the pattern.

Please when you make a Donation, provide an email address where you wish the pattern to be sent to.   Please allow up to 48 hours for pattern delivery, I will do my best to send it ASAP when PayPal notify's me of a donation.

To make a donation please log into your PayPal account, under the 'Send Money' tab please select 'goods or services.  I removed the Donation link I had up, after the first donation I revived had 33% taken out of it.  You can feel free to donate any amount you wish.  There is no minimal fee.  Please use the email provided in the image below and make sure to note the email address you wish the pattern to be sent to.  If no address is provided I will send the PDF to the email account associated with the PayPal account that sends the donation.

Monday, March 10, 2014

Sea Creatures *Patterns*

***UPDATE*** You can now download the PDF booklet for these patterns

I was asked by my aunt Mary to work up a few sea creatures for a friend who is about to have a baby girl.

I am going to start off with a dolphin pattern--
Worked nose down.

Grey yarn - worst weight
H hook
Stitch Marker

Start off with a magic ring or your preferred starting in the round method.  Here is a video of me showing you how to start a magic ring (from my penguin pattern).   I am working in a continuous spiral which is why I am using a Stitch Marker so I can keep my count.If you like, you can slst and join rounds at the end of each round everything else should work exactly the same.  Make sure to stuff as you go, and add in your eyes (if your doing safety eyes).
Start of the Decrease

R1 Sc 3 (3)
R2 Sc all (3)
R3 Sc all (3)
R4 Work the next four stitches into the same stitch (its an increase)- HDC DC3, in the next stitch work DC3 HDC, Sc in last stitch. (9)
R5 *Sc 2, inc* repeat (12)
R6 *Sc 5, inc* repeat (14)
R7-8 Sc all (14)
R9 *Sc 6, inc* twice (16)
R10-12 Sc all (16)
R13-14 Sc 4, hdc 8, sc 4 (16)
R15-16 Sc all (16)
R17 Sc 6, dec twice, sc 6 (14)
R18-19 Sc all (14)
R20 Sc 4, dec, sc, dec, sc 4 (11)
R21-22 sc all (11)
R23 sc2, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 3
R24 sc all (9)
R25 *Dec, sc* repeat
R26-27 Sc all (6)
R28 Stuff it as much as you want now, this row will close off the body. - Sc 2 (or how ever many it takes to get to the side of the tail) Pinch the opening closed flat, SC threw first 2 stiches held together, then sc threw the next 2, and last 2 (3)

Start of tail.

R29 Chain 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc2 , hdc, slst (the slst should be in the middle of your 3 sc from the body), slst, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc2, hdc, slst (the slst should be in the middle of your 3 sc over prevous slst) FO

Dorsal Fin Make 1

Chain 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc inc, dc, extended dc (yarn over, put a hook threw the stich pull up a loop, yo and work one loop, then yarn over and work 2, yo work 2), ext dc, fo leave long tail for sewing onto the top of the body

Sew the Dorsal fin onto the top of the body, making sure you are sewing along the last ext dc to the bod. I sewed mine in starting at row 13

Side Fin's Make 2

Chain 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc inc, ext dc inc, fo leave long tail to sew into body.

Like with the Dorsal fin, sew along the last ext dc into the body.   I sewed mine in on row 10/11 depending on on which side your sewing it to (the spiral will put one starting at 10 the other at 11 if you joined all your rows then start them in the same row).

If you used safety eyes you are finished!

If you didnt use safety eyes, either sew on buttons/beads, embroider on eyes, or felt on eyes.  I used some black ww yarn, and made french knots for eyes so it would be safe for the baby this toy is going to.

Octopus, and a Jelly fish.
They will be nearly the exact same thing,with the Jellyfish having one extra step for its ruffle.

I will be using my Octo pattern found here,  I will add the pattern with the Jellyfish adjustment here, the adjusted row will be all in bold so if you wanted to make a cute pair like I am you don't have to go flipping threw the site looking for it just skip the Jelly row, also with some minor adjustments so it has 8 legs instead of the 6 in the original pattern.

For the Octo I will be using-
Yellow ww yarn
Black yarn for eyes
H Hook
Stitch Marker (working in continuous rows)

For the Jellyfish I will be using-
Pink WW yarn
Black yarn for eyes
H Hook
Stitch Marker (working in continuous rows)

R1-Magic Ring 8 sc

R2- Increase (Inc) in each stitch (16)
R3- Inc, sc repeat all the way around (24)
R4- Inc, sc2 repeat (24)
R5-R10 SC all (32) (you will repeat this round till you have 8 rows)
R11- Dec, sc2 (24)
JELLYFISH ROW- This is worked in the front loops of row 11-skip if you want a normal Octo
Finished Leg, next to a Ch 14 so you can see the size difference.
R11JF- I slst my gray yarn, into the front loop of the previous row and chained up 3.  If you want the jellyfish ruffle to be the same color as the body just slst into the first front loop with working yarn then chain two.  Work 3dc into each FLO st all the way around ending with a slst into the top of your starting chain, FO (or if you working in one color slst three times into the post to get the working yarn back to the working stitch row.
 R12- Dec, sc (16) This will all be worked in the back loops of row 11 not the R11JF.  If using safety eyes you should add them now.
 R13-Legs row- Dec in the front loops only, chain 14, Dc 3 in the 3 chain from hook, dc2 into each chain back up (Your leg length will be about 1/2 to 2/3 of the size of your chain, so if you want smaller/longer leg's just chain less/more stitches, with ch 14 my leg's will be short) Repeat 7 more times leaving you  with 8 legs and 8 sc. sl st into the first dec.  (8)
 R14- Dec all in back loops of R 13(8)
FO leave a long tail.  Weave tail threw 8 stitches, stuff firmly, and cinch the bottom close and secure weaving tail threw the body.

If you didn't use safety eyes, now is the time to sew/felt on your eyes.

I crocheted mine-

Eyes make 2-
 MR Sc 6 FO, leave long tail for sewing and embellishing the eyes.

Clown Fish

I will be using the following-
Orange ww yarn
White ww yarn
H hook
Stitch Marker

This pattern is worked with the rounds joined, not continuous as the previous patterns.  So you need to know how to do a color change (work the last yo in new color then pull threw before doing the slip stitch to join the round), end each row with a slst and chain.  I do not cut the yarn between color changes, I carry it up along the inside, you can cut color changes if your not completable working with 2 strands at a time.

With Orange
R1- MR sc 6
R2- Inc all (12)
R3- Inc, sc (18)
R4-5- Sc all (18)

R6- Inc (do 3 stitchs into one), sc 8, Inc ( 3 in 1), sc 8 (22)
R7-8- Sc all (22) Switch to white on the last pull threw of last stitch before you join round with slst
R9- Sc, Inc (3 in 1), sc 10, Inc (3 in 1), sc 9 (26)
R10- sc all (26)
R11- sc all (26) Switch to Orange at end
R12-15- sc all (26) Switch to white at the end of round 15
R16- Sc 2, dec  (3 into 1), sc 10, dec  (3 into 1), sc 8 (22)
R17-18- sc all (22) Switch to Orange at end of R18
R19- Dec (normal Dec this round where you only work 2 into 1), sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2 (18)
R20-Sc all (18)
R21- Dec (2 in 1 normal again), sc 4 -repeat 3 times(15)
R22- Sc all (15) Switch to white
R23- Dec (2 in 1), sc 3(13)
R24- Sc All till 2nd from last stitch then dec (12)
R25- sc all (12) Switch to orange and secure white yarn and cut it off
R26- sc all (12)
You should make sure your eyes are in if your using safety eyes, and finish stuffing.
R27- Slst loosely into the first and second stitchs. Now like in the dolphin pattern we are going to pinch the opening shut, and sc across it (which is why we did the slst to get to the starting point for the closur make sure you are making it from top to bottom and not side to side as with the dolphin). Ch 1, sc across threw both layers (6)
R28-Ch 3 (counts as first dc), Dc 3 times in the first stitch, 2 Dc in next st, Dc next 2 st, Dc 2 in the next stitch, Dc 4 in the last stitch. (12)
R29- Sc all FO (12)

Side fin's 2-in orange
Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc & dc in next ch, ext dc in all remaining ch st (7)
Ch and turn, sc across, sc twice in last stitch, and work along the bottom (ie no chain and turn) sl st across (should be 5 st) FO leaving long tail for sewing to body

Top Fin

Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc remainder ch st's.  Work 2 sc into the post of the last hdc and FO with a long tail.

I made the same eyes from the previous pattern, all that is left is to sew everything in!

Simple Star Fish Pattern

This pattern will be so simple.

Legs -Make 5

R1- MR 6
R2- Sc all
R3- Sc all
R4- Inc, sc2 repeat (8)
R5- Sc all
R6- sc all
R7- sc all
R8- sc all

Leave a tail for sewing legs together.

Once you have all 5 legs, stuff them, then holding two legs together sew two stitch across both legs, skip two stitches on one leg, pick up new leg and tail and sew together two stitches of both legs.  You should have two stitches on either side of the connected legs that are unworked, continue this till you have all 5 connected and form a ring with the first and last legs sewing the same middle set of 2 stitches together.  Now all you need to do is whip stitch along the top stitches that where unworked, and cinch them shut and repeat on the bottom with one of the tails.  Weave in all ends, tucking all tails and you are done.

Seahorse Pattern
Seahorse on a stick!! (stick not included)

1- mr 4 slst ch1
2-sc all
3- inc*3 all  slst ch 1 (12)
4 sc all
5 sc all
6 sc 2, hdc 8, sc 2
7 sc 2, hdc dec 4, sc 2 (8)
8 sc, hdc 6, sc
9 sc, hdc 6, sc
10 sc all
11 sc all
12 inc 2, sc 4, inc 2 (12) (switch to continuous rounds)
 slst 4 -This is the  new star of the round of each round make sure to put your Stitch Marker here.  All remaining rows worked in BLO-
13 sc all (12)
14 sc 6, inc 6 (18)
15 sc all
16 sc all
17 sc, dec 2, sc rest  (16)
18 dec 2, sc 5, inv 2, sc 5
19 sc all
20 dec 2, sc rest (14)
21 dec, sc5, dec, sc 5 (12)
22 dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4 (10)
23 sc 2, dec, sc2, dec, sc2 (8)
24 dec, sc 2 rpt (6)
25 sc all
26 hdc 3 slst 3
27 sc all
28 sc 2, dec 2 (4)
29 sc all
30 sc all
31 dec, sc (3)
32 sc all
33 sc all
34 sc all
35 sc all

Leave LONG tail, fnish off and close up tail.  Roll the tail in a spiral like in the picutes and sew it as you roll to secure it.

Dorsal Fin

Chain 6, in the 2nd chain from hook sc across.
Chain 2 turn and hdc back arosss and slst down theend side.

Leave long tail to sew into the back of the body with.

I made french knots out of some black yarn for eyes but feel free to use safty eyes or buttons or beads.

Great White Shark
Last but not the lease, my shark!

1 mr 4
2 sc all
3  inc sc
4 inc all
5 sc all
6 sc all

7 switch to white- inc, sc2 inc, switch to gray, sc 2, inc, sc 2 repeat
8-White-inc, sc 4, inc, GRAY-inc, sc 3, in 2, sc 3, in
9- sc all White in white, gray in gray
10-18- sc all White in white, gray in gray
19-grey dec, white sc 4, grey dec, sc6, dec*3, sc 6
20- sc all grey
21- dec, sc 4
22- sc all
23-dec, sc3
24- sc all
25-dec, sc 2
26- sc all     


Pinch opening closed and sc it shut in the same manner as the Dolphin tail.  Ch 5, slst in 2 ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc 5, ch 4, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc all slst in last st


Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc & dc in next ch, ext dc in all remaining ch st (7)
Ch and turn, sc across, sc twice in last stitch, and work along the bottom (ie no chain and turn) sl st across (should be 5 st) FO leaving long tail for sewing to body.

I did french knots again for the eyes.

I think if I make an other shark, I will need to adjust the belly patch so it doesn't have that slant to it.

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Finaly finished! Crocodile Stitch Boots

Finally Finished! I really hope they fit her and she loves them.

I wasn't able to match up the color change on them, but I think it gives them a touch of kitch.  My hubby drove me all over town today just so I could find the right buttons to go with this color.  I picked a nice purple, turquoise, and lime green buttons so they would pop.  The button slip threw 3 of the stitches that look like scales/peddles  and can be adjusted so they are tighter by going over to the next set of V stitches (can only be seen from the inside so) or even to the next set of 3 scales/peddles.

Now that they are done, I will be going back to work on two blankets on for Miss Jordan, and the other for her dad.  I left the granny square blanket at my sisters so I am hoping that Jordan doesn't stretch it out to badly so the squares I am making fit with out causing it to bunch up.

Friday, March 7, 2014

Gift for Miss Jordan -WIP-

 Birthday Gift 


Miss Jordan

 I have seen these booties all over for a while now.   
This is the Crocodile Stitch Child Boots designed by Lianka Azulay.  I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern, I made my soles in black so her mom can add black puff paint making them non-slip if she wants with out it being noticeable.   I made some stitch count adjustments as well to get the size just right for her so they would not be to small or large.

I am using one skein of Chroma Luau WW, with a sole of  a few yards RHSS black. 

I think the baby size in this boot look the best, I realize the bigger the shoe the more noticeable the flaws in the pattern.  The front decreases have left some gaps that when the shoe is stretched are noticeable.  The directions for finishing the soles could use better defining I fallowed what they wrote, and did not get the right stitch count I had to go back and modify how I worked my corners.  Fallowing their directions I always came up 4 stitches short so I made two increases in each corner instead of putting 2 stitches in each corner as the pattern called for.

If I ever had call to make an other pair of these boot's I think I will make the sole I wrote for my other boots and just make sure I end with the right amount of stitches because it is more foot shaped and less rectangular, these booties I would call super wide width if you use the patterns sole, that is coming from someone who has wide width feet herself.

I still need to find some buttons to use and sew them on for closure, and weave in all my ends.  The photos are of the semi-finished right boot.  I am going to start the left boot now, sadly I did not end in a spot where they will be perfect matches, the left will start with the sherbet orange instead of the blood orange like the right boot.

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Want to share a bueatiful pattern....

I have been introduced to the Richmond Lace Infinity Scarf Pattern via the Reddit r/crochet group.  Everyone (at least it seems like everyone) has been sharing their progress and finished scarfs images and it has made me itch to try making one.

The pattern can be found on almost any pattern sharing site, I bought mine from, but you can get it form Craftsy or Ravelry it is only $1.99 which is a great price.  Its simple enough pattern with the chevron stitch, with a nice break of lace like rows staggered in, there are written instructions as well as a pattern diagram which makes it easy for those who like one better over the other.  I think the Chroma MidWinter fingerling weight realy makes the pattern.

You can find the chroma here on my Wish List that I created on unless the colorway is out of stock, which happens with the more popular colors.  It gives this patter great drape-ability and I love the fantastic long color changes that fade beautifully in this yarn.  It defiantly will need to be blocked once I am finished, I will try to take loads of pictures of the process so you can see just how beautiful this comes out.

Forgive the poor quality image, my camera isnt wanting to photograph in low light/back light conditions.  It has been a muggy cloudy winter here and there seems to be no end to it so I have to deal with indoor photo shoots.   It does not do this yarn justice Hopefully when I finish and block it I will catch a break and have a few rays of sun shine down that I can get a good picture.

You can see I am using my ergo handle, this one is the Boyed one, you just twist the top (green section which is a softish silicon) off and slide  any of your hooks that you already own (sizes c to k hook I believe) inside twits the top back on and hook away.  I find this does help me much better then the Kahoots I was using, epically on smaller hooks.  The area I find myself holding onto tightest is the green silicon which has a slight give so I don't wind up holding the hook as tightly as I progress in my work which is my bad habit.  I have small hands that it fits well in my hand so if you have large hands it might or might not be a bitter adjustment.


WIP --- Pattern, Crochet Head band that looks knit

I have been stitching and frogging this pattern for almost 2 months now.  I have been asked a few times if I could make a head band pattern that looks like  >Insert random image of headband that looks knit<.

This pattern I will say is Intermediate because of the stitch work but don't let it stop you from trying if your a beginner!

I am going to update the pattern as I work on this, if anyone wants to work it with me let me know I would love any feedback and photos of your progress.

I am going to work this pattern with HDC, but I will not be working into the Front/Back/Post, instead I will be working into the bar on the back of the HDC.  Now if you dont know what I am talking about grab some yarn and a hook chain up 8 st and HDC in the 3rd chain from hook and across.  Now look close at your HDC you will see there are the top F/B loops then on the back of the work close to the f/b loops is an additional loop/bar that is the part of the HDC we will be working into and it will push the front and back loops to the front of the work after a few rows you will start to see the 'knit' like look.  

I have not started the writing the pattern as I can not find a good way to work this in the round yet.  I am working on making my 'ends' of the head band not curl and still look 'knit' while being crochet.

I will start off with a chain 35, I plan on working across the 35 then chaining and working the other side of the 35.  I need to work on this starting  till I get it in a way that looks good and doesn't curl before I can move on.