Monday, September 2, 2013

Octo Amigurumi Rewrite!

I got a request to rewrite my Octopus pattern, some people where having a hard time reading the Blue font agains a grey backround.  So here it is---

Amigurumi Octo

A beginers tutorial and pattern

You will need the fallowing--
A small amount of yarn any color you like- if its balled the size of a tennis ball should be more then enough to make one or even two
A stitch marker so you can see where your rounds starts and stops-  I used to use a scrap of contrasting yarn but I have had it get pulled out on accident (I think the cats do it on purpose but i will call it an accident till I catch them) so now I just use a bobby pin and it works great but like i said you dont have to go out and buy some fancy set of stitch markers a scrap of yarn will do (unless you have kitties like mine)
Crochet hook- Any size will work but check the lable of the yarn you are using (if there is no label just the thinner the yarn the smaller the hook the thicker the larger) The smaller the hook the smaller the finished item with turn out and vice versa large hook large octo.  I just used a US size F hook because my yarn is WW
Stuffing of choice -I use polyfil
Eyes - I used Safty eyes because they are child safe , but you can felt on eyes, or sew buttons on as eyes, or even embroider on eyes!
Yarn needle for finishing.

You can start any way you feel works best for you I show two methods for how I start

 Start A Chain 2, then make 6 sc in the second chain stitch from the hook (the first loop)

 Start B Magic Ring 6 sc  (here is a video of how to start with a magic right it was made for my Penguin but its the exact same process )
R2- Increase (Inc) in each stitch (12)

 R3- Inc, sc repeat all the way around (18)

 R4- Inc, sc2 repeat (24)

R5- Inc, sc3 repeat (30)

R6-11 SC all (30) (you will repeat this round till you have 11 rows)

 R12- This is the decrease and leg's round- you can choose if you want to work the legs as part of the body (so you dont have to sew them on later) or if you want to have more then 6 legs just work the decrease and ignore the parts in bold where I have you chain a length to add in the legs.  I am going to have you do a FLO (front loops only) decrease which means you only hook under the loop closes to you and not both loops of a stitch this leaves a more eye appealing decrease and does leave a large gap that a normal decrease can cause.
 Work one dec, 'chain 22 (or if you want the legs longer/shorter chain more/less) DC twice into the 3rd chain stitch from the hook (I tend to add 3 or 4 if I am working with a thin yarn to get the twist really started), then 2 DC in each chain (or more if you want a tighter spiral) then SC into the next st' sc2  repeat from begining You should end up with 6 legs and 24 st's

 R13-Dec sc 2 (18) The dec should fall right at the leg spirals so you can just pick up a stitch on either side of the legs and work those for the dec and sc all other stitches

 R14- Dec, sc (12)

 From here you want to finish off the work, start by attaching your eyes and any other features you may like, then stuff.  I like to weave my working yarn tail threw the front loops of the last round of stitches and cinch it tight then secure and sew it shut. If you did the legs separate this is when you should find a placing you like and sew them in. I find between rounds 12-13 look best. The images I have of my progress where worked with the legs not attached but the process is exactly the same if you fallow the pictures and work them as part of the body.

I sorta rushed threw this so if something is unclear or worded in a way you dont understand just ask and I will help out!!
Felted eyes with a Jellyfish fuffle above the legs

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