Orange-Lion Brand Thick and Quick Wool Ease (3 1/2 skeins)
Black & White (technically its silver >.>)- Loops and Threads Cozy Wool ( less then 1/4 a skein each)
Worked up with a size K hook.
I will be writing in short hand so -o- means do this in Orange, -b- black, -w- white.
My finished scarf (just the body not including the tail or head) is 6ft, you can make yours longer or shorter by adjusting the amount of rows you work for this part. I sugest for a child do 3-4ft, for a teen 4-5, adult 5-6, for crazy fox scarf 6+.
This pattern is a quick clean up of my notes I took when making the scarf so please let me know if something is off so I can fix it.
I just want to say a quick thanks to my handsome model for showing off the scarf for everyone to see, he opted for a bit of anonymity by hiding his face.
Head-R1- -b- MR sc 6
R2- -w- INC all
R3- -w- sc 2, -o- inc 2, -w- sc 3
R4- -w- inc, sc, -o- sc, inc 2, sc, -w- sc, inc 2
R5- -w- inc, sc, inc, -o- sc 6, -w- inc, sc, inc 3
R6- -w- sc 2, inc, sc 2, -o- sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, -w- sc 2, inc, sc 6
R7- sc all, white in white, orange in orange
R8- -w- sc 4, -o- sc 12 -w- sc remaining stitchs
R9- -w- sc 3, -o- sc 14, -w- sc remaining
R10-16- -o- sc all
Ears- make 4 (two in white, two in orange)I suggest making the 2 white first so you can easily assemble them with the orange and not have to cut the yarn then sew the pieces together later.
R1- MR sc 2
R2- SC all
R3- Inc all
R4- SC all
R5- SC all
Holding the white aginst the orange, sc around, putting 2 sc into the bottom corners and 3 into the top.
Eyes- Make 2I made my eyes by unplying a length of the black yarn, its equivalent to a thin WW. You can use buttons or safety eyes instead I didnt have any in a size that would work well for me so I just crocheted mine.
MR DC 12, sew onto face, I used some of the scrap white unply'd it and added in the lense flair affect you see on the eyes.
I also take this time to place the ears and sew them on to the head as well.
Legs- Make 4R1- --b--MR DC 4 --DO NOT JOIN IN ROUND-- this is worked flat, just tighten up the MR and weave the tail into the first row.
R2-3--b- dc all
R4- -b- dc, dec, dc
R5-10- -b-dc all
R 11-16- -o- dc all
Tail-R1- MR DC 6 -w-
R2- INC, dc 2, around-w-
R3-Inc, dc 3 -w-
R4- Inc 2, dc 3 -w-
R5- Inc, dc 2, inc, dc 3 (repeat around)
R6- Inc 2, dc 2, inc 2, dc 3 (repeat around)
R7-8- dc all -w-
R9-19- dc all -o- (this should leave you with about a foot and a half of tail worked, if you want a shorter or longer tail work a few more or less rows)
R20- Dc 4, dec -o- (you may more may not wind up with 3 or 4 dc at the end and no dec that is ok)
R21- DC all -o-
R22- DC 3, dec -o-
R23- DC all
R24- Dc 2, dec -o-
R25- SC -o-
FO with long tail for sewing into the end of the scarf.
Body - Make this as long or short as you want, I worked my body to 6ft so on me it can be wrapped around 2 or 3 times with both tail and head still sitting in front.I also assemble as I worked, when I start the body of my scarf I start it by picking up the stitches from the head (working threw both layers), and the front legs. You do not have to do it this way but it elimitates having to sew on both head and legs.
R1- Work 12 DC along the seam of the head peice (working through the front and back at the same time, as well as the legs on the sides-- IE first 3 stitchs are worked threw 3 layers leg/fhead/bhead; then 6st through just the f/b of the head, then the last 3st are worked threw 3 layers of leg, f/b head)
--If this is to complicated you can chain 14, turn and work 12 DC across the chain (12 ch + 2 ch for turn; turning chain DOES NOT COUNT AS A ST)
R2--till lengh you like-- Chain 2, DC all
I end with a row of SC for sewing my tail and legs into so it wont stretch out and leave big gappy holes on DC. For extra security I like to sew the legs on first then the tail, and use the tails yarn to go over both of the leg seams as well.