Want your own Faux Fox? [Pattern]

Faux Fox Stole my Heart.

I used a bulky yarn for this, two brands because neither brand had all the colors I wanted.
Orange-Lion Brand Thick and Quick Wool Ease (3 1/2 skeins)
Black & White (technically its silver >.>)- Loops and Threads Cozy Wool ( less then 1/4 a skein each)
Worked up with a size K hook.
I will be writing in short hand so -o- means do this in Orange, -b- black, -w- white.
My finished scarf (just the body not including the tail or head) is 6ft, you can make yours longer or shorter by adjusting the amount of rows you work for this part. I sugest for a child do 3-4ft, for a teen 4-5, adult 5-6, for crazy fox scarf 6+.
This pattern is a quick clean up of my notes I took when making the scarf so please let me know if something is off so I can fix it.
I just want to say a quick thanks to my handsome model for showing off the scarf for everyone to see, he opted for a bit of anonymity by hiding his face. 

 

Head-

R1- -b- MR sc 6
R2- -w- INC all
R3- -w- sc 2, -o- inc 2, -w- sc 3
R4- -w- inc, sc, -o- sc, inc 2, sc, -w- sc, inc 2
R5- -w- inc, sc, inc, -o- sc 6, -w- inc, sc, inc 3
R6- -w- sc 2, inc, sc 2, -o- sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, -w- sc 2, inc, sc 6
R7-  sc all, white in white, orange in orange
R8- -w- sc 4, -o- sc 12 -w- sc remaining stitchs
R9- -w- sc 3, -o- sc 14, -w- sc remaining
R10-16- -o- sc all

Ears- make 4 (two in white, two in orange)

I suggest making the 2 white first so you can easily assemble them with the orange and not have to cut the yarn then sew the pieces together later.

R1- MR sc 2
R2- SC all
R3- Inc all
R4- SC all
R5- SC all

Holding the white aginst the orange, sc around, putting 2 sc into the bottom corners and 3 into the top.

Eyes- Make 2

I made my eyes by unplying a length of the black yarn, its equivalent to a thin WW.  You can use buttons or safety eyes instead I didnt have any in a size that would work well for me so I just crocheted mine.

MR DC 12, sew onto face, I used some of the scrap white unply'd it and added in the lense flair affect you see on the eyes.

I also take this time to place the ears and sew them on to the head as well.

Legs- Make 4

 R1- --b--MR DC 4 --DO NOT JOIN IN ROUND-- this is worked flat, just tighten up the MR and weave the tail into the first row.
R2-3--b- dc all
R4- -b- dc, dec, dc
R5-10- -b-dc all
R 11-16- -o- dc all

Tail-

R1- MR DC 6  -w-
R2- INC, dc 2, around-w-
R3-Inc, dc 3 -w-
R4- Inc 2, dc 3 -w-
R5- Inc, dc 2, inc, dc 3 (repeat around)
R6- Inc 2, dc 2, inc 2, dc 3 (repeat around)
R7-8- dc all -w-
R9-19- dc all -o-  (this should leave you with about a foot and a half of tail worked, if you want a shorter or longer tail work a few more or less rows)
R20- Dc 4, dec -o-  (you may more may not wind up with 3 or 4 dc at the end and no dec that is ok)
R21- DC all -o-
R22- DC 3, dec -o-
R23- DC all
R24- Dc 2, dec -o-
 R25- SC -o-

FO with long tail for sewing into the end of the scarf.

Body - Make this as long or short as you want, I worked my body to 6ft so on me it can be wrapped around 2 or 3 times with both tail and head still sitting in front.

I also assemble as I worked, when I start the body of my scarf I start it by picking up the stitches from the head (working threw both layers), and the front legs.  You do not have to do it this way but it elimitates having to sew on both head and legs.

R1- Work 12 DC along the seam of the head peice (working through the front and back at the same time, as well as the legs on the sides-- IE first 3 stitchs are worked threw 3 layers leg/fhead/bhead; then 6st through just the f/b of the head, then the last 3st are worked threw 3 layers of leg, f/b head)
--If this is to complicated you can chain 14, turn and work 12 DC across the chain (12 ch + 2 ch for turn; turning chain DOES NOT COUNT AS A ST)
R2--till lengh you like-- Chain 2, DC all
I end with a row of SC for sewing my tail and legs into so it wont stretch out and leave big gappy holes on DC.  For extra security I like to sew the legs on first then the tail, and use the tails yarn to go over both of the leg seams as well. 

 

Feeling Sheepy [Pattern]

I finally finished it!  So here you go a PDF Download of the Feeling Sheepy pattern.

To make one like mine you will need two yarns and 2 hooks. Bernat Blanket yarn, and Red Heart WW.  If you don't have bernat, and don't want to buy a ball just to make this tiny guy you can crochet holding 3 strands of any ww yarn together as a replacement but you wont get the same 'fluffy' look.

What does the Fox say?

I took inspiration from 'The Flint Fox Cowl' in making this for my niece.

I didn't like TFFC pattern, it had an odd texture and the sizing was way off only the smallest size would have come out right, and her sizing for everything else is very vague, and when I started the toddler size the hood section came out big enough for me to wear it so I scraped it and started over making it up as I went.  (Her gauge said with bulky yarn ((I am using the same yarn she did)) and a L hook 2 1/2 stitchs = inch and my gauge matched that so it wasn't a gauge tension issue) Also her yardage was off by almost 2/3 a skein.

I worked from the bottom up. Here is what I did for a toddler/child size--
I used up 3 full skeins of bulky orange  (318 yd), just under a full skein of dark gray (100 yd), and a very small amount of silver for the front of the ears (less then 10 yds)            
Dark Gray, Chain 60 (+2 to turn)-hdc across (60 st do not count turning chain as a stitch)

Alternating Front Post HDC, Back Post HDC for 2 rounds (=3 finished rounds)

Then I switched to orange, and hdc 7 rounds.  (10 finished rounds) 

Then I worked a shoulder section decrease by *hdc 5, dec*  repeating around (11 finished rounds)
I did an other rounds of shoulder shaping *hdc 4, dec* around. (12  finished rounds)     
            
Here I stopped working in rounds and worked 12 rows back and forth evenly in HDC.         

I flipped the peice inside out and slst the top of the flat pannels together to form the hood, taking extra care at the end, I did a decrease twice so as not to have a sharp point stitcking out when I flipped it back right side out.            

Using the dark gray I worked a round of HDC around the opening of the face, chaining 4 (+2 TC) and worked back across (4 hdc into the chain ) the face section. I worked this back and forth for 4 rows.  To get the collar to lay right I whip stitched the edge of the start of the collar and the bottom of the chain 4 together to make a point right in the middle and pinned it in place by sewing a botton over it.

The ears are 2 peices that are SC together, you just hold them together and work threw both pieces as if it was one.

Mr- sc 2, close the ring.  ch 1 turn, sc 2, ch 1 turn increase across (4 st), Ch 1 turn sc across, ch 1 turn sc inc inc sc (6), ch 1 turn sc all, ch 1 turn inc sc4 inc (8), ch 1 turn sc all (work this for 3 rows)

Make two in dark gray and two in white/silver then SC from the bottom up putting 2 stitchs into the point do not work across the bottom of the ear as you will be sewing it shut as you stitch it onto the hood.

I stitched my ears into place 2 rows from the join of the top of the hood, right where the folded brim/collar of dark gray end's

You can stitch the brim down to hold the fold or just leave it as is so it can be flipped out on particularly windy/rainy days.


When I started this I though I might make one for me, but I bought the yarn based on her yardage and I know I wont have enough so I might make a faux fox scarf instead.



Bonus! Got to hang out with my niece and managed to get a shot of her in the hood!  Little stinker knew what we where up to so getting a good shot was not easy.

Come see me today out at Animeggroll!!

The address is:
 9254 Watson Rd, 63126
314-543-3009

Its in the shopping center with Aldi's and the Red Cross.

One down... I forget how many otheres to go.... (Pattern)

Blue Ribbed slippers.   

Christmas gift for someone.  I may wind up having to remake one of them as they are not quite the same size.  I did everything exactly the same but as I was working the second one my tension was apparently tighter and its just a fraction smaller >.<    they are made to stretch so this size can fit   8-10 (woman's) ((about 10 inches with stretch)).
                           

I am debating on if I should add a strap, or something else to the slipper. I dont want them to look so plain the giftee thinks I didnt want to spend the time on them, but I am afraid of making them to 'busy' looking as I love the way the rib texture looks. They are meant to be worn around the house and not on outings but could easily be adapted with some felt or leather soles.

Slippers- 

Make 2 (or one if you only have need -.o of one) depending on your yarn (mine was some where between ww and chunky) you will use a different hook, different hook will also mean a different size so keep that in mind.  Its easy to adapt this pattern to smaller/larger sizes while working the sole.  These where made for someone with wide feet so if your making them for a normal or slim foot only do one increase section in the sole.

Starting with the sole- work 2 so they come out the same size o.-

r1-Ch 8, In 2nd chain from hook hdc, hdc across (6) --This will be the heel
r2/8-ch 2 turn and Hdc all (6) --- (if your making them smaller only do 4 to 6 rows)
r9-Hdc inc in first stich, hdc to last, hdc inc in last st (8)
r10- Hdc all (8)
r11- Hdc inc in first st, hdc across, hdc inc in last stitch (10) --for normal/slim feet just HDC all and do not increase.
r12/19-Hdc all (10) --If your making them smaller again only do 4 or 6 rows
r20-Hdc dec in first st, hdc across till 2nd to ast st, hdc dec last st (8) --Toe shaping- end of sole
Cut tail and FO weave in ends or you can crochet over them when you work the body round

Body of the slipper 

(Front Post Half Double Crochet=fphdc   Back Post Half Double Crochet=bphdc)

r21-Work a standing HDC into the 3rd stitch (middle of the heel) of the heel ((if you dont know how to do a standing HDC you can just slst and chain 2 it will count as your first hdc)). Hdc all the way around the sole---Mine broke down to 6 st along the heel, 8 at the toe, and 23 along both sides equaling 60 hdc (or 59 hdc and your starting chain 3)
r22- chain 2 (counts as first BPhdc here and threw out) world alternating Fphdc and bphdc around, slip stitching into the first fphdc at the end (not the chain)
r23- chain 2, repeat the fp/bphdc pattern by Fphdc around the fphdc of previous row and same for bphdc.
r24- Start off by grabbing some stitch markers, we need to mark off the toe section.  In the middle of the toe section count out 7 FPHDC in both directions and mark it so you now have 28 stitches of the toe section marked off.  Now fallow the Fp/Bp pattern till the marker, across the toe ONLY WORK the fphdc skipping all the bphdc till the second marker.  Then go back to the fp/bphdc in fp/bphdc till end. Slst into first fphdc.
r25- Fp/Bp in Fp/Bp till toe section. Fphdc dec twice, fphdc 6, fphdc dec twice.  Fp/Bp in Fp/Bp till end
r26-Fp/Bp in Fp/Bp till toe section marker. Fphdc 2, fphdc the next 3 together twice, fphdc 2, then go back to the Fp/Bp in Fp/Bp pattern.
r27-Finishing trim row, I just did a simple slst around and FO

Sealife Pattern now in PDF Download!

I have had a bit of down time durning the convention this year and I am using it to work on getting PDF version of the more popular patterns I have  up on my site.

By far my Sealife Critters gets the most views per day so I though I would get it up first.
Sealife Critters <~~~~<< download the PDF and let me know what you think!

Fear the Con 7 June 13-14 (St Louis gamers convention)

This is the selection I plan on hauling with me to Fear the Con 7 June 13th - June 14th, 2014 at the Maryland Heights Centre.

 This is, a winter chibi, a Dean chibi, a dinosaur, a owl, 2 blue eyes (cats love these), 3 generic turtles (so they can be customize later), one full set of TMNT will be sold as a set (unless it gets to mid 2nd and no interest is shown then I will brake them up), 3 chibi dragons, 5 cthulhu in assorted colors, 9 bunnies in assorted colors, 2 dragon scale dice bags, and a pokeball dice bag.

I am trying to decide if I should make more TMNT, or work on more dragons, or not bother with crochet and get to work on creating the Chibi Dragon Pattern.

Chibi Turtle Pattern *FREE PDF*

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Chibi Turtle PDF

You can now download a copy of my Chibi Turtle Pattern.  I have not gotten feedback yet from my pattern testing pool so if you catch a mistake please let me know.


Its not as detailed as my moonkin pattern but it should be easy enough to fallow, if you need any help, if something is unclear or you just thing a step sounds wrong contact me and I am more then willing to help/fix/explain.

Aloha April Finished -Pattern-

Aloha April Contest Entry

This is the project I have been working on to enter in a contest being held over at r/crochet.

I wanted to be able to take the sham off with out having to destry it so it can be washed, and when fall comes I can pack it away and maybe make a more fall themed sham.  I just tie off the top of the motif to the top of the motif on the other side with  a yard of yarn folded over  to make those little bows.

This also goes to show how lighting can realy change a picture.  It is over cast outside and raining off an on but I was able to get that bottom shot off.  Inside I took the top picture with 2 lights on (one behind and one in front) with what little natural light I could get from the window.  Funny thing is the indoor photo has the closest to true yarn color to the actual color then the outdoor photo and normally its the opposite, how ever the pillow's orange color is truer to the outdoor shot.

This is the pattern I originally posted for the flower motif--

1-ROW Ch 8, slst 1 in first ch.
2-ROW Ch 1, sc 16 into the loop.
3-ROW Ch 1, sc 2 over second and first rows (into the loop), ch 9 picot (ch 9, ss in first ch), sc 4 over second and first rows (into the loop), ch 9 picot (ch 9, ss in first ch), repeat from to 4 more times, sc 2 into the loop, ss 1 in first sc in this row.
4-ROW  *ln next ch 9 picot: sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 3, ch 3 picot, tr 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2: skip 1 sc in 3rd row (loop), ss 1 in next sc', repeat from * to * 5 more times (except make last ss in the first sc of this row).

I wound up only needing 18 motifs (3 rows of 6 motifs) to fit my pillow. 

To connect as you work (recomended) for the first row, work one motif, then work the 2nd motife  but on peddle 2, when you make your picot instead of ch 3 work -ch 1, slst into picot on 6th peddle of previous motif, ch 1- peddle 3 will connect to the previous motifs peddle 5.   The 3rd-5th will all be worked the same. 6th motif you will be using to close the ring, work 1st peddle, connect the next two as previous with 2-5, work 4th peddle (no connecting), now in the 5th peddle work its picot into the 3rd picot from the 1st motif, 6th peddle into the picot of the 2nd peddle of the 1st motif.

For the second row, you will be working 2 peddles, then join the next into the 4th peddle from previous row (just pick a spot to start), then working counter clockwise connect your next peddle into the joint where peddles 5 and 3 joined. work next peddle into 4th peddle of that 2nd motif (going clock wise), work last peddle.   Repeat this for the next motif (add the next motif to the right of previous), but the last peddle will be worked into the 5th peddle of previous motif (the one to the left).   For the last motife of the row work one peddle, then connect to the FIRST motif of the row first -- 2nd peddle into FM's 3rd, 3rd, into FM  2nd/4th join (going counter clock wise) and so on.

I repeated the second rows join method for my third row then just tied off the tops of each motif to the ones on the other side.

I found it helped for me to think of one point as the top (1st peddle) and bottom (4th peddle) when connecting,