Gloves! (sorata a pattern?)

They still need buttons for closure but other wise they are finished.          
  
Its so hard to get good shots of gloves when you dont have a 3rd or 4th arm to take the photo with, add that to all the murky weather these are the best photos I was able to do.


I worked them in row's not rounds so I could get my chroma to do those vertical stripes.   

This was the frist time I attempted this style glove if I ever make an other pair there are a few ajustments I would need to add in as the area between thumb and pointer finger  is a bit tight even with the extra gusset space I worked in.  I did a simple trim of arches (on row of chain 3 sk 2 sc, fallowed by a row of 4sc in chain space slst in sc) I did the trim this way so I could use it on the side of the glove as button holes as well as being a decorative trim.   The trim runs the length of the top section of the glove around the cuff, when you get to the palm section all I did was a simple row of SC both rows to give me a solid space to sew buttons on.       


I used 1 ball of chroma in ww, with about 30 yd or less light gray DK weight with a size D hook.  I find ww chroma not to be the typical worster weight size it runs thinner which is why I paired it with a DK which seemed to be just slightly thicker.               

Next pair these are the changes I need to make--

• Additional row between thumb and fingers on both palm and top.
• While the sc in bl to fl seam looks interesting I would need to sew pieces together or only work the bl/fl sc seam till it hits the thumb then sew thumb threw fingers together for less bulk and resume bl/fl sc join at end of pinky till cuff.
• Palm section from pointer finger through thumb area  needs additional row or two.

If you want to make a pair for yourself a basic description of what I did to make these
 Top of hands- make 2
I chained the length to get from the tip of my them till 2 inches below my wrist (for me that was 40 chains)+1 to turn, I sc 3 rows, then working back up I stopped where the lenth of my thumb was left unworked (12 unworked~~) and chained the length between my thumb and tip of my pointer finger.----if I where to make these again I would adjust this area as its tight on the finished glove-- work the pointer finger 3 rows, on the return I leave the length of my pointer finger unworked and chain the length of my middle finger ect working 3 rows for each finger.

I worked a base round in grey from the edge of the cuff up and around sc in every stitch 3 across the tops of fingers and between.

Palm section - make 2
Starting on the pinky side I just revers that I did for the top side all the way till finishing the middle finger. For the pointer finger I started it as normal sc up the chaining- but on the way down I stopped at 20 st's and chained the length for my thumb (12) and worked these two fingers for 3 rows (technically 4 for the pointer).

I did a trim starting on the pinky side at the cuff working up and around, 3 st in top of every finger, looping around the tip of the thumb worked back up the chain and down again.  On the pinky side from cuff up I worked 32, then 16, then 36 (cut the yarn and worked from cuff up each time), thumb side cuff up sc 40, 16, all but last 6 stitchs; to accommodate my wide wrists.  The cuff side is the section from the cuff (last long row of the middle finger/pointer finger) up around the chain  side to the tip of the thumb sort of like your working a candy cane shape.


To join flip two sections to be the left glove, and starting from the thumb cuff up I worked in the back loops of one peice and the front loops of the other and sc'd evenly around.  I find now that the gloves are finished its too bulky in the fingers so I recomend doing the sc till the base of the thumb then using a yarn needle and sew the length of all the fingers till the end of your pinky finger the pick back up with the sc bl/fl leaving 2inches of the cuff unworked 9was 16 stitchs for me.   

Finishing cuff, starting at the join, sc down then across bottom of cuff and back up the other side finishing with a sc into the join.  Repeated this for a second pass (cuff was just a bit tight which is why I did an other row).  At join I ch 1 and turned no longer working in a round, along the 'top' work *chain 3, sk 2, sc*  all the way around till you get to the palm section just sc straight up.  Chain one and sc aback around sc on palm section, work 4 sc into chain sections with slst between into the sc from before. 
       

I know this isnt a realy flushed out pattern but my hands are small and wide so I think its more of a blue print you can adjust it easily by knowing the size hands you are working it for.             
                          
If only I had a outline of my neice's hand I would make her a pair of these to match her hat she is getting for christmas.

Mittens with flaps..? *Pattern*

 Mittens-Fingerless gloves

I am making these for my moms SO John as yet an other christmas gift.

He has fairly large hands so these are sized for a mans large.  My finger just barely pop out of them where the flap folds back.

It can easily be adjusted by swapping for a smaller hook, or by doing the cuff section to fit your wrist, and adjusting the hand section as you go.

Its worked in mostly one piece you will have to make the start of the flap before you start the mit that way when you get to the hand section of R17 you have it ready and do not have to cut the yarn work it and then work back in.  If you want more over lap in the mitten just add an additional row to this piece in sc.  Both hands are worked the same, only row 17 is slightly different on where you place the flap to open the mit.


I am using RedHeart in Camouflage. A size I/9-5.50mm hook, if you want smaller you can easily drop down to a H/G/F hook with out needing to adjust the pattern.

When working in the round I always end with a slip stitch and chain to start the next row, no turning.

Mitten Flap-
Chain 18, in 2nd ch from hook hdc across (16)  Make 2 and set aside till hand row 17

Cuff-

R1-Chain 15 (for smaller cuffs chain less, this just ensures the mits will tuck inside his jack sleeves so his wrists are not cold), sc 14 across.
R2-30- BLO sc all chain turn

Slip stitch the edge of R1 to R30 to form a tube then flip it right side out (so your slst dont show).

Hand-
R1- Chain one (you should be above the join so working into the side of your rows), sc across (30) Thats one sc in the side of each row.
R2- Inc, sc 6 (you will end with a sc of 7) (34)
R3-7- sc all (34)
R8- sc 15, in the next 4 stitchs increase, sc 15 (38)
R9- sc all
R10- Sc 13, chain 3, sk 12 st, sc 13 (29) You just separated out the thumb section for the mit we will come back to it later
R11-16- sc all
R17 RIGHT Hand- Sc 16, now take one of the mitten flap sections and we will be sc across the top of it for 16 more sc  ending with a slst into the start of the round (32) (this will create your flap so you have a slight over lap on the palm, you will work across that flap section from here on.)
R17 LEFT Hand- Sc 1, then take the mitten flap section and work 16 sc across, skipping over  13 stitches on the glove, sc 16 (this should finish your row)
R18-22- sc all (32)
R23- Sc 4, dec around
R24- sc all
R25- Sc 3, dec
R26-30- sc all
R31- dec, sc 2
R32- slst opening closed by flatting the top and working across.

Thumb
R1- Attach yarn to the middle of the chain 3 section chain 1 and work 1 sc into the middle stitch you just attached to, decrease, 10 sc, dec, slst to join chain
R2-7- sc all
R8- dec all
R9- flaten the tip and slst across to close it.

From here we need to weave in tailes, and using a foot long lenth, we need to throw a few stitchs into the mitten flap edges to secure them to the mit along the edge to the sc row 16.