My little space for sharing what I am crocheting/knitting/crafting now.
Friday, March 27, 2015
The Presentation I used at Kawa Kon!
People have showed intrest in wanting a copy of my PP presentation from the pannel I ran at Kawa Kon.
Sorry it has take me so long to get it up, the weather here has been freezing-summer-cold-mild-frost bit which has my immune system just sputtering. Now that I can focus here is the slide show!!
I want to give a huge shout out to a few people--
Twinky Chan --Thanks for letting me show off some your awsome work.
Crochet-gifs -- Invaluable to people just learning to crochet thank you for all the work you share.
Su-ami -- Your Micro crochet wow's people, and I love pointing your work out when I talk about crochet being an art form and not just a craft.
Lastly to all the people of reddit who sent me photos of blankets/amigurumi's/crochet to share.
Tuesday, March 17, 2015
Tunisian Hat top down- Is it possable? [hat pattern+math]
Yes.
So I fiddled around today with my need double ended hooks and some yarn. I decided to see if I could start a top down hat worked in a Tunisian knit stitch.
I worked the hat out for about 5 rows of increase and these photos below are the results. I realize I didnt use the best colors for an example work, since I used a white and black variegated MC with a black CC but it was the yarn I had that was handy and easy to unravel if I decided to try working the hat differently if it didn't work up like I had planned.
So here is what I used --
Size M/N 9mm double ended hook
Worster Weight yarn in 2 colors (Mc/Cc)
Stitch marker (I used a scrap of white yarn)
You need to know some tunisian before attmpting this, how to work a TSS(simple stitch) and a TKS (knit stitch)
Here is the basic pattern I started working--
R1- MR sc 8 (work normal sc)
R2- This is where you will leave your loops on the hook-- I did this increase round by picking up a loop from the front, then back loops of the top of each stitch. You should need to work off loops as you add them on, for me I was comfortable having 6 stitch's on the hook at any time. You work them off as you would work a return pass in normal Tunisian with the CC, leaving 2 loops of the MC on the hook to maintain consistent tension. [16]
R3- Inc, tks (the way I increase was to work a normal tss then in the same stitch work a tks)[24]
R4- Inc, tks 2 [32]
R5- Inc, Tks 3 [40]
Just keep fallowing this pattern of increases till you get the width you need for the person the hat will go to. The Tunisian knit stitch has a natural curl to it so dont worry when it starts to curl out wards, once you start working the length it should work itself out.
A little math to help you out--
C=2piR
What that means-
C= the circumference of the head
R= the radius you need to get to insure your increase row will leave you with the circumference you need.
pi= 3.14~~~~~
So lets say you want to make a hat for a toddler with a 18 head. To make sure you work the right amount of increase and dont make a hat to small or way to large we need the radius (that is the length of the start to the edge of the hat ((or from the center of the circle to the edge))).
So 18=2piR we divide both sides by 2; 9=piR; and now we divide both sides by pi (3.14) so we get 3=R (I rounded up the real number was 2.86). So from the start of the hat to the edge needs to be 3 inches (or 6 inches across from edge to edge) in order to be wide enough to fit.
If you want the math for the diameter (from edge to edge) its C=piD so that math would be 18=piD; divide by pi D= 5.73 which I would round up to an even 6 inches.
So I fiddled around today with my need double ended hooks and some yarn. I decided to see if I could start a top down hat worked in a Tunisian knit stitch.
I worked the hat out for about 5 rows of increase and these photos below are the results. I realize I didnt use the best colors for an example work, since I used a white and black variegated MC with a black CC but it was the yarn I had that was handy and easy to unravel if I decided to try working the hat differently if it didn't work up like I had planned.
So here is what I used --
Size M/N 9mm double ended hook
Worster Weight yarn in 2 colors (Mc/Cc)
Stitch marker (I used a scrap of white yarn)
You need to know some tunisian before attmpting this, how to work a TSS(simple stitch) and a TKS (knit stitch)
Here is the basic pattern I started working--
R1- MR sc 8 (work normal sc)
R2- This is where you will leave your loops on the hook-- I did this increase round by picking up a loop from the front, then back loops of the top of each stitch. You should need to work off loops as you add them on, for me I was comfortable having 6 stitch's on the hook at any time. You work them off as you would work a return pass in normal Tunisian with the CC, leaving 2 loops of the MC on the hook to maintain consistent tension. [16]
R3- Inc, tks (the way I increase was to work a normal tss then in the same stitch work a tks)[24]
R4- Inc, tks 2 [32]
R5- Inc, Tks 3 [40]
Just keep fallowing this pattern of increases till you get the width you need for the person the hat will go to. The Tunisian knit stitch has a natural curl to it so dont worry when it starts to curl out wards, once you start working the length it should work itself out.
A little math to help you out--
C=2piR
What that means-
C= the circumference of the head
R= the radius you need to get to insure your increase row will leave you with the circumference you need.
pi= 3.14~~~~~
So lets say you want to make a hat for a toddler with a 18 head. To make sure you work the right amount of increase and dont make a hat to small or way to large we need the radius (that is the length of the start to the edge of the hat ((or from the center of the circle to the edge))).
So 18=2piR we divide both sides by 2; 9=piR; and now we divide both sides by pi (3.14) so we get 3=R (I rounded up the real number was 2.86). So from the start of the hat to the edge needs to be 3 inches (or 6 inches across from edge to edge) in order to be wide enough to fit.
If you want the math for the diameter (from edge to edge) its C=piD so that math would be 18=piD; divide by pi D= 5.73 which I would round up to an even 6 inches.
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| Front-1 |
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| Back-1 |
 |
| Front-2 |
 | |
| Back-2 |
Saturday, March 14, 2015
New hooks in!!
I just got my new set of double ended Tunisian hooks in!!
This set originally 'said' it costed $59.99 which is way out of my budget. It was on sale for $16.95 + $3.90 shipping in the amazon market place, the reviews mostly seemed honest.
What do I mean by 'mostly seemed honest'? Well now days you can pay company's to boost your product ratings by leaving 5 start reviews. Typically these reviews just regurgitate the details listed in the description with colorful adjective's thrown in. I dont want to waste my time and money on a seller who pays to inflate their ratings.Now that being said, I saw no reports of anyone paying out the $60 for these hooks almost every review payed the $20 (16+S&H). The only real complaint's I saw where a few people mentioning that some of their hooks snagged the yarn, but its easily fixed with sanding paper/nail file and a touch of wax.
I opened some of them and they all felt smooth but working with them will really test them. The kit come in size C-P, I have a shot of all the hooks semi in order from largest (on left) to smallest. Then I took a close up comparison of the P and C next to each other. I have to say I am hesitant to use the smaller hooks that C hook is about as thick as the bamboo skewers I use for grilling but not as flexible, where the P is sturdy and I cant image it snapping with out some very deliberate attempting.
Once I get the time, I am going to try and make a top down hat using Tunisian crochet. I will let you in on a secret- I hat working bottom up hat's. I have yet to find a top down tunisian hat pattern, a month ago I was chating with u/StitcherUniverse over on reddit's r/crochet we where debating how to work a top down, at the time I did not have the time/supplies to attempt to work it myself and now I do!! They worked through a version where the top had some small puckering issues I am hopping when I work it up I can come up with an easily repeatable pattern that anyone can work up.
Wish me luck!!
Thursday, March 12, 2015
Hippo Butt! (NYR photo update)
This is the first time I have gotten a nice clear picture that shows most of the colors true. Unfortunaly the lighter shades seemed to be washed out by the flash, and with out the flash the darker shades all looked the same. I do love how the purple and dark green work together here. I havent been doing any ploting of colors other then the finishing rounds, the legs are finished as you can see in the eggplant where the body is finished in Shoal. I think I will keep the front legs in eggplant but I am still deciding on if I want the bell in shoal or eggplant.
To top it all off some time during the Kawa Kon rush to make items for examples I misplaced the only 2.00mm hook I own. I typically leave the hook with the project it is used on, and I swear I had left it in the box with all the yarn and wip but it is no where to be found.
I am going to see if I can match the gauge using a 2.10 mm or a 1.90mm and hope my 2.00mm pops up some time soonest.
Sunday, March 8, 2015
Kawa Kon--- Thank You!! (also pattern)
Thank you Kawa Kon!
Hosting my first pannel at Kawa Kon was a blast. I was up against a few really compelling other pannels so I want to give a shout out to the people who stuck with me through technical issues and made my first pannel fun.
For those of you who where un able to come to the Kon, I gave away some cute mini octos, cthulhu, chibi dragon, and 2 pokeball DIY kits. In the time of the pannel, one of the people who voluntered and got a kit to work on during the pannel was able to start and finish in the 1 1/2 hour and she had only been crocheting for a few months.
Pokeball- Red/Black/White yarn (small amounts) size G crochet hook, a yarn/darning needle, and stuffing where all included in the kit but I had forgoten to print the pattern so I am posting it here!
With Red-
R1- Mr 6
R2- Increase in all
R3- Increase, sc (repeat around)
R4- Inc, sc 2 (repeat around)
R5- Inc, sc 3 (repeat around)
R6-7- sc all
R8-9- Switch to black- SC all
R10-11- Switch to white- SC all
R12- Dec, sc 3 (repeat around)
R13- Dec, sc 2 (repeat around)
R14- Dec all
FO-- leave 6 inch or longer tail, stuff ball, and using the darning/yarn needle and weave threw the front loop of each stitch in that last row, giving it a tug when your done to chinch the opening closed. You can make a small knot to secure the yarn then poke the needle all the way through the ball and out the other side and just snip the tail so it hides itself back into the finished ball.
To make the button on the front of a ball-
R1- With white, MR 6
R2- With Black, increase all
FO leaving a long tail to sew to the ball, when worked in a spiral I like to place it right over the color change hiding the little jump in colors.
I have a few things I want to work on, but when I get the time I will whip up some more mini octos and post the pattern for them.
Hosting my first pannel at Kawa Kon was a blast. I was up against a few really compelling other pannels so I want to give a shout out to the people who stuck with me through technical issues and made my first pannel fun.
For those of you who where un able to come to the Kon, I gave away some cute mini octos, cthulhu, chibi dragon, and 2 pokeball DIY kits. In the time of the pannel, one of the people who voluntered and got a kit to work on during the pannel was able to start and finish in the 1 1/2 hour and she had only been crocheting for a few months.
Pokeball- Red/Black/White yarn (small amounts) size G crochet hook, a yarn/darning needle, and stuffing where all included in the kit but I had forgoten to print the pattern so I am posting it here!
With Red-
R1- Mr 6
R2- Increase in all
R3- Increase, sc (repeat around)
R4- Inc, sc 2 (repeat around)
R5- Inc, sc 3 (repeat around)
R6-7- sc all
R8-9- Switch to black- SC all
R10-11- Switch to white- SC all
R12- Dec, sc 3 (repeat around)
R13- Dec, sc 2 (repeat around)
R14- Dec all
FO-- leave 6 inch or longer tail, stuff ball, and using the darning/yarn needle and weave threw the front loop of each stitch in that last row, giving it a tug when your done to chinch the opening closed. You can make a small knot to secure the yarn then poke the needle all the way through the ball and out the other side and just snip the tail so it hides itself back into the finished ball.
To make the button on the front of a ball-
R1- With white, MR 6
R2- With Black, increase all
FO leaving a long tail to sew to the ball, when worked in a spiral I like to place it right over the color change hiding the little jump in colors.
I have a few things I want to work on, but when I get the time I will whip up some more mini octos and post the pattern for them.
Saturday, March 7, 2015
$1000 yarn, Furls hooks, and Happily Hooked Magizen Giveaway
One Grand Prize Winner will receive over $1,000 in prizes:
40 skeins of choice from Red Heart Yarns,
a mega accessory pack from Susan Bates Hooks & Needles,
a lifetime subscription to Happily Hooked Magazine,
and 4 premium crochet hooks from Furls Crochet.
40 skeins of choice from Red Heart Yarns,
a mega accessory pack from Susan Bates Hooks & Needles,
a lifetime subscription to Happily Hooked Magazine,
and 4 premium crochet hooks from Furls Crochet.
There will also be 15 runners-up that will win some great prizes, too!
PLUS, earn extra entries by sharing this amazing giveaway with your friends!
************************************************************************
I have no affiliation with Happily Hooked. I am just sharing with you guys because if I dont win one of you might!!
Thursday, March 5, 2015
NYR Update
Because Feb was so short I completely forgot to post an update for my New Years Reasulotion work on the Happy Hippo.
No photo as I have been getting all set up for the Pannel I will be running this weekend at Kawa Kon. After this weekend I will try to get some photos of it posted here!
I am up to 9 out of 44 motifs. I finished assembling the back end. For March I plan on finishing up the belly and back, possibly starting the front legs.
There are a few things I want to work on after the convention is done that I was inspired to try but wont have the time till them.
I was hoping I could finish my 'Not a Jayne' hat to wear to the convention as I was working on it in a new variation of a sc stitch so it would mimic tunisian knit with out having all the stitchs on a hook. Basically I was working between the post's instead of under the top bar's. Because this is a new way of working a stitch I am still getting my tension figured out and had to frog it 3 times before I just gave up on it for the night.
If I can figure out a good way of working it with out the stitch's getting all tight I might try and do a tutorial for it. Normally I dont have an issue with my stitches being tight but because I am not working into the top but into the post I am trying to adjust the right spot with out the whole stitch being loose.
No photo as I have been getting all set up for the Pannel I will be running this weekend at Kawa Kon. After this weekend I will try to get some photos of it posted here!
I am up to 9 out of 44 motifs. I finished assembling the back end. For March I plan on finishing up the belly and back, possibly starting the front legs.
There are a few things I want to work on after the convention is done that I was inspired to try but wont have the time till them.
I was hoping I could finish my 'Not a Jayne' hat to wear to the convention as I was working on it in a new variation of a sc stitch so it would mimic tunisian knit with out having all the stitchs on a hook. Basically I was working between the post's instead of under the top bar's. Because this is a new way of working a stitch I am still getting my tension figured out and had to frog it 3 times before I just gave up on it for the night.
If I can figure out a good way of working it with out the stitch's getting all tight I might try and do a tutorial for it. Normally I dont have an issue with my stitches being tight but because I am not working into the top but into the post I am trying to adjust the right spot with out the whole stitch being loose.
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