I haven't been crocheting much due to wrist issues so I havent blogged any of the ideas I have been wanting to hook up or Christmas stuff I worked on (over the summer/fall). BUT I wanted to share this pattern I wrote for quick and easy Christmas Stockings that I make while its still enough time to whip up a few.
The pattern uses a stitch not everyone is familiar with, but is quite easy once you figure it out. Waistcoat stitch, is a OLD stitch that is gaining new popularity for its 'knit' like look. The trick to this is the stitch is just like making a single crochet, but your working it INTO the post of the previous row not into the top of the stitch. If you look at the front of a SC the post makes a V shape in the front and a upside down Y shape in the back, you should be sliding your hook into the V and coming out the Y. If your a tight hooker, then you might what to do what I am which is pulling up on the first of each loop pull threw a bit so it is taller then the row you work over so on the next row you will not have an issue working into the stitches.
I show here how I work the waistcoat stitch. The GIF is on a loop so just sit back and watch it a few times if you need to.
I recommend when you start your stocking, you use a hook one to two times smaller to make your starting chain, as this patter will work around the chain. This is what gives the 'toe' of the sock that boxed look which I like (if you want a rounded tow just do a MR/Circle start with half the amount of starting stitchs and work an extra row where you inc in ever stitch).
You only need about 1/3 to 1/2 a skein in 2 colors for a stripped stocking. The stockings come out roughly the same size as the store bought felt stockings.
C1= color you will start with, it will be the color your toe and heel will be work in.
C2= second contrasting color that will form all your strips.
R1-With C1, Chain 13. Working into the FLO (closed loop to you) starting in the 2nd chain from the hook SC 11 stitches across the chain. In the last stitch work 3 SC (this should turn the chain so you are now working the other side), SC 11, work 2 SC into the last chain (it should be where your first stitch was made). (26st)
SLST to join the round, but do NOT chain. The WCSC does not require a turning chain, and the turning chain can add noticeable bulk to the seem if you choose to work it.
Front here on out work the rest of the rows in the WCSC stitch unless other wise stated.
R2-WCSC all (26st)
R3/4- In C2, WCSC all (26st) -- work the color change in the last stitch of the row like normal for sc so your slst is done in the new color, and just carrie your yarn up along the join as the rows are so short its not worth cutting and joining.
R5/6- C1, WCSC all (26st)
R7/8- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R9/10- C1, WCSC all (26st)
R11/12- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R14/15-C1, WCSC all (26st)
R16/17- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R18-19-C1, WCSC all (26st)
R20- WCSC all (26st)
R21-Now we will start the heel row. Mark off the 9 stitches on the natural fold edge that will be 4 on both sides and one on the fold (you will notice this when you work with the starting chain, if you choose to do a magic ring start pick 9 stitches to mark for the heel I like it to be by the join so I have a clear front and back and can put the seam on the back). You will not work these stitches they will be skipped over, you have the option to chain 9 when you skip them or if your ambitious you can foundation sc 9. SO work WCSC in every stitch skipping over the marked 9 and either chaining or FDSC 9 when you skip.
We will come back and add the heel in with C1 once we finish the body of the stocking (just like making a sock!)
This should leave you with 10 stripes now.
R22/23- C1, WCSC all (26st) -work sc into each chain DO NOT work around the chain as you will be used the unworked portion for the heel
R24/41 -Repeat this pattern of 2 rows in each color till you have 10 strip's worked above the heal ending with C2.
R42-Cut C2 leaving a long tail to work over, with C1 chain 2, and work a DC into each stitch around (work into the post V just like for the WCSC)
R43- We will switch to working around the post for this row, alternate working FPDC, BPDC all the way around.
Optional, loop to hang stocking on a hook, with a size I hook chain 3, in 2nd chain from hook sc across making 2st' work till you get a length you like (I did 8 and felt it was a bit small on the first stocking and plan to do 12 on this second).
Now with C1 go back to the heal to work it. Join in the middle of the R20 Skipped 9 stitches, work a WCSC in the first 4, you should have 1 stitch on that row left, decrease across it and onto the bottom side of your chain/or/fdsc. Work 7 sc across to the next side and work a decrease across the last stitch in the chain//fdsc and the next stitch in the skipped stitches, work reaming 3 wcsc. Repeating this around, dec at the sides until there is just 4 stitches left, cut a long tail and sew those stitches closed, or optionally flip the stocking inside out and slst them closed.
So Happy Holidays to all and I would love to see action shots of anyone's stockings if you used the pattern!
The pattern uses a stitch not everyone is familiar with, but is quite easy once you figure it out. Waistcoat stitch, is a OLD stitch that is gaining new popularity for its 'knit' like look. The trick to this is the stitch is just like making a single crochet, but your working it INTO the post of the previous row not into the top of the stitch. If you look at the front of a SC the post makes a V shape in the front and a upside down Y shape in the back, you should be sliding your hook into the V and coming out the Y. If your a tight hooker, then you might what to do what I am which is pulling up on the first of each loop pull threw a bit so it is taller then the row you work over so on the next row you will not have an issue working into the stitches.
I show here how I work the waistcoat stitch. The GIF is on a loop so just sit back and watch it a few times if you need to.
I recommend when you start your stocking, you use a hook one to two times smaller to make your starting chain, as this patter will work around the chain. This is what gives the 'toe' of the sock that boxed look which I like (if you want a rounded tow just do a MR/Circle start with half the amount of starting stitchs and work an extra row where you inc in ever stitch).
You only need about 1/3 to 1/2 a skein in 2 colors for a stripped stocking. The stockings come out roughly the same size as the store bought felt stockings.
Christmas Stripped Stocking
With a K (6.5mm) hook and 2 colors of WW yarn (or 1 if you want a solid color).C1= color you will start with, it will be the color your toe and heel will be work in.
C2= second contrasting color that will form all your strips.
R1-With C1, Chain 13. Working into the FLO (closed loop to you) starting in the 2nd chain from the hook SC 11 stitches across the chain. In the last stitch work 3 SC (this should turn the chain so you are now working the other side), SC 11, work 2 SC into the last chain (it should be where your first stitch was made). (26st)
SLST to join the round, but do NOT chain. The WCSC does not require a turning chain, and the turning chain can add noticeable bulk to the seem if you choose to work it.
Front here on out work the rest of the rows in the WCSC stitch unless other wise stated.
R2-WCSC all (26st)
R3/4- In C2, WCSC all (26st) -- work the color change in the last stitch of the row like normal for sc so your slst is done in the new color, and just carrie your yarn up along the join as the rows are so short its not worth cutting and joining.
R5/6- C1, WCSC all (26st)
R7/8- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R9/10- C1, WCSC all (26st)
R11/12- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R14/15-C1, WCSC all (26st)
R16/17- C2, WCSC all (26st)
R18-19-C1, WCSC all (26st)
R20- WCSC all (26st)
R21-Now we will start the heel row. Mark off the 9 stitches on the natural fold edge that will be 4 on both sides and one on the fold (you will notice this when you work with the starting chain, if you choose to do a magic ring start pick 9 stitches to mark for the heel I like it to be by the join so I have a clear front and back and can put the seam on the back). You will not work these stitches they will be skipped over, you have the option to chain 9 when you skip them or if your ambitious you can foundation sc 9. SO work WCSC in every stitch skipping over the marked 9 and either chaining or FDSC 9 when you skip.
We will come back and add the heel in with C1 once we finish the body of the stocking (just like making a sock!)
This should leave you with 10 stripes now.
R22/23- C1, WCSC all (26st) -work sc into each chain DO NOT work around the chain as you will be used the unworked portion for the heel
R24/41 -Repeat this pattern of 2 rows in each color till you have 10 strip's worked above the heal ending with C2.
R42-Cut C2 leaving a long tail to work over, with C1 chain 2, and work a DC into each stitch around (work into the post V just like for the WCSC)
R43- We will switch to working around the post for this row, alternate working FPDC, BPDC all the way around.
Optional, loop to hang stocking on a hook, with a size I hook chain 3, in 2nd chain from hook sc across making 2st' work till you get a length you like (I did 8 and felt it was a bit small on the first stocking and plan to do 12 on this second).
Now with C1 go back to the heal to work it. Join in the middle of the R20 Skipped 9 stitches, work a WCSC in the first 4, you should have 1 stitch on that row left, decrease across it and onto the bottom side of your chain/or/fdsc. Work 7 sc across to the next side and work a decrease across the last stitch in the chain//fdsc and the next stitch in the skipped stitches, work reaming 3 wcsc. Repeating this around, dec at the sides until there is just 4 stitches left, cut a long tail and sew those stitches closed, or optionally flip the stocking inside out and slst them closed.
So Happy Holidays to all and I would love to see action shots of anyone's stockings if you used the pattern!
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